Crochet Basic Tutorials in Pictures: Slip Knot

People have a variety of ways they learn and some are more effective than others. This tutorial is for those who are primarily photo- and written-oriented.

This is a photo tutorial, along with written instructions, for how to make a slip knot. A slip knot is a knot used when starting any crochet project.





This picture shows the tools that you need to begin crocheting. They are simple: A ball of yarn and a crochet hook. In this tutorial, I am using a ball of light blue yarn and a size K crochet hook. You would use whatever yarn and size hook your project requires.




The first thing that you need to do with the yarn is to make a circle. You can accomplish this easily by wrapping the yarn around your fingers and crossing it over, as illustrated in the picture. In this photo, I left a short tail. For most projects, you will want to leave a longer tail (yarn that is not on the working yarn side of your project) so you will be able to weave in the ends when you are finished. Keep this in mind when creating your slip knot.



Once you have the yarn crossed over your fingers, slip it slightly off your fingers to form a circle of yarn. Take your working yarn and push it through the circle, forming a small loop.




Once you have the small loop formed, pull on the loop to tighten the circle of yarn and form a slip knot, as shown above. This knot is wonderful because if you decide that you have not created a long enough tail or want to start your project over, you can simply pull the tail of the yarn and the knot will unravel.




This is a picture of the crochet hook through the slip knot. The tail is hanging down below and the working yarn is pulled to the left hand side, ready to use!

Stayed tuned for more basic crochet tutorials!

Yarn Basics: No Label, No Problem! How to Determine Weight, Fiber Content, and Yardage of Unlabeled Yarn

Sometimes you will run across yarn in various formats (skeins, hanks, or loose) that will have no identifying information about them. This happens fairly often if you purchase yarn from a garage or estate sale, a thrift store, or are given someone's old stash. Even though these treasures are unmarked, there are ways to gather information that can help you determine what kinds of projects would be appropriate.

First we want to determine the fiber content of the yarn. While you may not know the specific content amounts is the yarn is a blend, you can determine the class of fiber in most cases. To begin with, give the yarn a good feel. Run your hands over the yarn and take in all the qualities of it. After some practice, you will become adept at knowing the feel of different base fibers. Cotton is easiest to detect using feel, as it has a smooth and cool feel. Acrylic and wool can be trickier, since higher quality acrylics are soft and fluffy, which cause them to take on a similar feel to wool blends.

There is a way to tell, however, whether a yarn is acrylic or wool. 

NOTE: PLEASE KEEP OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN. Take a glass jar with a lid on it and write BLEACH / POISON on the side. Put a small amount of bleach in the jar and place a small cutting of the yarn in the bleach. Put it way up high, far from the reach of children, pets, or anyone else. When you check the jar in approximately 12-24 hours, if the yarn has degraded or disappeared, it is wool or wool blend yarn. Wool disintegrates in bleach. If it looks the same after 24 hours, it is acrylic. 

Now we have some idea of what our yarn consists of. Next thing that we need to know is the weight (fingering or bulky?) and how many yards of yarn we have! The table below lists the different weights of yarn, the number of yards per pound, and the number of wraps per inch. Wraps per inch refers to a method of determining weight using a ruler.

WEIGHT	YARDS PER POUND	WRAPS PER INCH
Zephyr	Over 6000 YPP	Over 45+ WPI
Cobweb	Approx. 6000 YPP	Approx. 40+ WPI
Lace	3000-6000 YPP	36-40 WPI
Baby	2400-3000 YPP	30-36 WPI
Fingering	1800-2400 YPP	24-30 WPI
Sport	1300-1800 YPP	18-24 WPI
DK	1000-1400 YPP	12-18 WPI
Worsted	900-1100 YPP	10-12 WPI
Aran	700-1000 YPP	6-10 WPI
Bulky	400-700 YPP	Approx. 8 WPI
Super Bulky (Chunky)	400 or less YPP	Less than 8 WPI

So now we have all the numbers we need to figure out the weight and yardage of our yarn. The first thing to do is determine how many wraps per inch our mystery yarn is. Take a ruler and mark off 2 inches on the ruler. Take the yarn and wrap it (not too loosely or too tightly) around the ruler, making sure that the yarn does not overlap or leave gaping spaces, but is placed one loop snugly against another. Continue to wrap the yarn in this manner for 2 inches, count the number of wraps created, and divide by 2. Voila! That is the number of wraps per inch of the yarn you have. Once you know the wraps per inch, you can get a good idea of the weight of the yarn by referencing the chart above.

For example: You take your mystery yarn and do the wraps as per instructions above. Over 2 inches, you have 22 wraps. So you take 22 and divide it by 2 to get 11 wraps per inch. So per the chart above, this mystery yarn is worsted weight.

Next we want to determine the yardage of the mystery yarn that we have. The easiest and most accurate way to do this is to weigh an amount of yarn (I use 10 yards) and use the weight to determine the yards per pound. You want to measure this accurately so use a kitchen or postage scale if possible, or even a grocery store produce scale. You can use a bathroom scale, but it is likely to be inaccurate because it is not sensitive enough.

So take ten yards of yarn and weigh that. Then divide that weight by 10 to get the weight per yard. Then weigh the ball or hank of yarn and divide by the weight per yard. That will give you the approximate yardage. As you can see above, worsted weight yarn is generally between 900 and 1100 yards per pound.

While these steps may not get you the exact information that would be on a label, it can nevertheless be very useful in determining the type and size of project appropriate for those mystery yarn balls!

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Crochet Basics: Crochet Hooks

There are several different types of crochet hooks, and they are used for different things. There are steel crochet hooks, aluminum crochet hooks, plastic crochet hooks, and Tunisian or afghan crochet hooks. Steel crochet hooks are the smallest, followed by aluminum and plastic. Tunisian or afghan crochet hooks are unique, as they are long handles with one crochet hook on the end. They resemble a knitting needle more closely than a crochet hook.

Steel Crochet Hooks

Steel crochet hooks are made of steel, and they are the smallest of crochet hooks. Generally these are used with crochet thread instead of thicker yarn. They are imprinted on the side with their size. Some are just steel, while others have plastic or bamboo handles. Below is a chart of the US sizes with their millimeter equivalent.

Size 00	3.50 mm
Size 0	3.25 mm
Size 1	2.75 mm
Size 2	2.25 mm
Size 3	2.10 mm
Size 4	2.00 mm
Size 5	1.90 mm
Size 6	1.80 mm
Size 7	1.65 mm
Size 8	1.50 mm
Size 9	1.40 mm
Size 10	1.30 mm
Size 11	1.10 mm
Size 12	1.00 mm
Size 13	0.85 mm
Size 14	0.75 mm

As you can see from the above chart and picture, the larger the size number, the smaller the hook size. This is important to note.

Aluminum Hooks

Aluminum hooks are made of aluminum, and they are the larger type of crochet hooks. The sizes that are available in aluminum are also available in plastic and wood. Some companies even offer interchangeable crochet hooks, where the head of the hook can be swapped out to change the size. Like steel hooks, aluminum hooks have their size etched into the side of the hook. Since these are larger hooks than the steel, instead of using thread, these are the hooks you would use with typical yarns. Below is a chart of the aluminum hook sizes.

Size B	2.25 mm
Size C	2.75 mm
Size D	3.25 mm
Size E	3.50 mm
Size F	3.75 mm
Size G	4.25 mm
Size H	5.00 mm
Size I	5.50 mm
Size J	6.00 mm
Size K	6.50 mm
Size N	9.00 mm

Three sizes are found only in plastic – size P, size Q, and size S, which are 10.00 mm, 15.75 mm, and larger respectively.

Tunisian or afghan crochet hooks

Tunisian, afghan, and double pointed crochet hooks generally come without size markings on the needles, because the markings would cause the yarn to catch. When you purchase these needles, the size should be listed on the package of the needle you purchase. However, if you buy them second-hand or inherit a set of hooks, you may not know the size or have the original packaging. There are size gauges available to purchase from most craft stores that you insert the hook into the various sized holes and you can figure out which size it is.

Tunisian hooks come in various sizes, similar to aluminum crochet hooks. The difference is the Tunisian crochet hook is a long (around 12 inches) hook, which is used much like a knitting needle. They come in wood, plastic, and metal. The sizes vary from C through N.

There are other varieties of crochet hooks out there, especially antique ones, that are unique or different than those you would find in a store today. Experiment with any and all sizes and materials, and find which ones you enjoy the most. Happy hooking!

Knitting Basics: Abbreviations!

In order to understand knitting patterns, you must understand the common abbreviations which are used when writing them. Below is a list of common abbreviations encountered in basic patterns along with their meaning. While these will become clear and second nature over time, it may be helpful to print out the list as a reference.

[ ] - Work the instructions within the brackets as many times as directed.

( ) - Work the instructions within the parenthesis as many times as directed.

* - Repeat instructions following the * as directed.

approx - approximately

BO - Bind off

CA – Color A

CB – Color B

CC – Contrasting color

cm – Centimeters

CO – Cast On

cont – Continue

dec – Decrease

DPN – Double pointed needles

fl – Front loop

g – gram

inc – Increase

k – knit

k2tog – knit 2 [stitches] together

m – meter

MC – Main color

mm – millimeters

oz – ounces

p – purl

p2tog – purl 2 [stitches] together

psso – pass slipped stitch over

rep – repeat

rnd – round

RS – Right side

sk – skip

skp – slip, knit, pass over (decrease)

sk2p – slip, knit 2 together, pass over (2 decrease)

sl st – slip stitch

ssk – slip, slip, knit these 2 together (decrease)

sssk – slip, slip, slip, knit these 3 together (decrease)

st – stitch

st st – stockinette stitch

tbl – through back loop

tog – together

WS – Wrong side

yd – yard

yo – yarn over

Yarn Basics: Just How DO You Make This A Ball?

When you purchase yarn, it comes in many forms. Skein, cone, and hank are the most common. The easiest way to use the yarn you have is to roll it into a ball. This is generally pretty straightforward, but the best way to unwind the original yarn form depends on which model your yarn comes in.

Skeins are usually center-pulled, meaning there is a piece of yarn coming from the center of the skein, which you pull and the yarn should come smoothly from the middle of the skein. Some people choose to work from the skein without balling it. The more preferred method, however, is to ball it because occasionally you will encounter tangling within the skein, and it is much easier to untangle the yarn while winding a ball than it is while knitting a project!

Cones are similar to skeins only they come in the shape of a cone. Because the yarn is wound around the cone, it is generally safe to use yarn directly off the cone without much risk of internal tangling. You can always wind it into a ball though if you prefer!

Hanks are the most difficult yarn form to ball. They are composed of the yarn strand, which is looped over and over then twisted into the more stable hank-form. Therefore, you cannot center-pull a hank or use the yarn directly from the hank as you can with skeins and cones. Rather, you must unwind the hank, place the giant loop of yarn over a holder, such as the back of a chair, the hands of a helper, or a knitting swifter. Using any of these holders, you will be able to unloop the yarn and ball it.

Many people who use knitting swifters also use ball winders. The swifter is specially made to hold handspun hanks of yarn, and the ball winder winds the yarn easily without the hassle of untangling the looped yarn. Both the ball winders and the swifters are incredibly useful and worth every penny if you are an avid fiber artist.

Swift:                                

Ball Winder in Action:

Yarn Basics: Yarn Stores

There are a variety of stores, both online and offline, that sell yarn and other knitting accessories. In this article, different types of yarn stores will be discussed, including major retail chains, local yarn shops (LYS), online retailers, and the unexpected places.

Retail chains

There are many large retail chains that either specialize in yarn and crafting supplies, or carry a diverse amount of them. These are usually multi-state stores such as WalMart, Joann's Fabrics, Michael's Crafts, A.C. Moore, Hobby Lobby, and Ben Franklin. These stores generally have sales/coupons advertised online, and specialty coupons sent via email or regular mail if you sign up for their newsletter. Prices can vary as well as selection. Most craft stores carry a variety of brand name yarns as well as accessories such as knitting needles and stitch holders. You can order online or visit them in their store.

Local yarn shops (LYS)

Local yarn shops are a wonderful way to get more up close and personal with a range of higher quality yarns. These shops are generally locally owned and run and can provide a more intimate purchasing experience. While the yarns can be more expensive, they are generally more luxuriant and made with much higher quality materials than you will find in general retail chain craft stores. These stores also have knitting accessories, some handmade. These can be harder to find, but check your local telephone directory for information on these local treasures.

Online retailers

There are too many of these to name, and many are so amazing! There are the yarn brand websites, such as Red Heart, Bernat's, Caron, Patons, and Lion Brand. There are also online versions of local yarn shops such as Ice, Herrschners, Annie's Attic, Knit Picks, Knitting Warehouse, Smiley's Yarns, WEBS, and Deramores. There are also a large amount of exceptionally talented individual retailers who spin and dye their own handpainted yarns. These you can find by searching such places as Etsy, Ebay, ArtFire, and Ravelry. A large number of online groups for knitting, yarn, spinning, and dyeing exist as well. You can search these types of groups to find individuals who sell yarn.

Unexpected Places

A few places that are unexpected can often lead to the cheapest yarn! Be sure to check places such as your local Goodwill, Salvation Army, and other second-hand stores frequently, as they tend to have large lots or bags of yarn very inexpensively. Sometimes they will not have labels though, so it can be a grab bag. Other good places to look for yarn are estate sales, garage sales, classified ads, and places such as Craigslist for your area.

This is an overview of various places that yarn can be purchased. The stores listed are merely examples, and this is not an exhaustive list. Use search engines to your advantage to find amazing yarns and as always, enjoy!

Yarn Basics: Labels and How to Read Them

This is an example of a yarn label. A yarn label contains a lot of essential information about that particular yarn. In this example, you can see the name of the company that produces the yarn, the name of the yarn, and the weight of the yarn in the top section of the label.

This yarn is a worsted weight yarn called Cascade 220 Superwash. It is produced by Happy Knits, Inc. Their website is also listed.

Next you see the fiber content. This particular yarn is 100% superwash wool. Below the fiber, you see the quantity of wool in grams (100 g) and ounces (3.5 oz) as well as the length in both meters (200 m) and yards (220 yds).

Beneath the yarn fiber/length information, you find the gauge. In this example, gauge for both US size 7 and US size 6 knitting needles is given. Please see my article on gauge and how it works here!

Next is information on where the yarn is produced and who distributes it. Below this information you find the care instructions, which are extremely important. For example, if you wash a handwash wool in a washing machine, you may find a piece of felt waiting for you instead of your original creation. So please, check the washing instructions carefully!

Next you see the color and lot numbers. These are also essential to understand, especially when making something that uses more than one skein of yarn. If you are making something which uses multiple skeins, such as a sweater, it is important to make sure that you are using the same color and dye lot, or else there can be slight discrepancies in the color. So make sure to purchase enough yarn in the same lot to complete your project!

This is an overview of a yarn label and how to understand what is on it. Understanding your yarn will make each project more enjoyable!

Knitting Basics: To Gauge Or Not To Gauge

Gauge is a word that you will see in most knitting projects to describe the desired tension or stitches per inch. This is crucial in certain patterns that require exact sizing, such as clothing, but less important in patterns that are more flexible in sizing, such as scarves, blankets, dishcloths, etc. Each knitter has a different tension when knitting. This means that if you have several people working with the same needle and yarn, you will have several different sizes of finished project due to tension. Some knit more tightly, and some knit more loosely. This is why it is crucial to check your gauge on projects that are meant to fit a particular person or object. If your knitting is tighter than the pattern writer's knitting, your garment may be too small, or vise versa.

So how do you measure gauge? Patterns that are gauge-dependent will provide a “gauge” for you to follow. Here is an example: 24 stitches and 39 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch using #3 needles. Let's take a closer look at what this means. This gauge example says that if you cast on 24 stitches and knit for 39 rows using size 3 needles in stockinette stitch (Knit Row 1, Purl Row 2, repeat), you should get a 4 inch swatch. A swatch is the small piece of fabric, in this instance 4 inches, that you knit to determine if you have the correct tension. If your swatch is larger than 4 inches, your gauge/tension is looser than the designer's, and you need to use a smaller needle to obtain the correct gauge. If your swatch is smaller than 4 inches, your gauge/tension is tighter than the designer's, and you need to use a larger needle to obtain the correct gauge.

So before you start a project that is designed to fit, take the time to check your gauge with a swatch. It is worth the extra time to ensure the garment will fit properly!